At 7 PM on August 23, 1989 approximately 2.5 million people stood hand in hand in an unbroken human chain linking the capital cities of the three Baltic Nations. The people stood together along the 650 kilometers stretching from Tallinn, Estonia, through Riga, Latvia, and on to Vilnius, Lithuania. This massive, peaceful demonstration was a remarkably creative expression of unity, resolve and courageous defiance against decades of brutal Soviet occupation. This powerful act of resistance took place on the 50th anniversary of secret agreements signed between Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union in 1939 that divided Europe between the two totalitarian regimes, and which predetermined the Soviet occupation of the Baltics in 1949. The remarkable expression of an oppressed peoples' aspirations for freedom and statehood culminated in their countries' re-establishment of independence following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991.
My journey - some thirty years later - followed this Baltic Way - from Vilnius through Riga and on to Tallinn.
The Three Crosses in Vilnius are a reminder of the important role the Catholic Church played in the long, popular struggle to end the Soviet Occupation. Hiking surrounded by shimmering golden autumn foliage on that cold, drizzling morning, I thought about the protective role maintaining faith can play in face of adversity. Occupation troops too understood this and hence the crosses were bulldozed by the Soviets. Only to be rebuilt again.
Having read of the Hill of Crosses near Siaulial, Lithuania, I was intrigued and determined to find this place of spiritual pilgrimage and political resistance and collective affirmation of independence. I travelled by train from Vilnius. First view of the crosses in the distance is impressive. It is not, however until you begin to walk and climb amidst thousands upon thousands of crucifixes that you begin to appreciate the sustaining, meaning-providing force spirituality has had and continues to have in the hearts of the people.
Crosses first appeared here in the fourteenth century and were associated with opposition to the Russian tsar. Much later, during the Soviet Russian occupation, placing a cross here was an arrestable offense. Indeed in 1961 the Red Army bulldozed approximately two thousand crosses. Overnight the crosses re-appeared. Today there are tens of thousands of crosses - crosses upon crosses upon crosses. Some small and delicate, others large and magnificently carved. A tear and a prayer spontaneously flowed from within me. I will not forget this sacred place.
The Baltic Countries came under three successive foreign, totalitarian occupations beginning in 1940. 1940 to 1941 was the first occupation by the Soviet Union. On a single day, June 14, 1941 - 10, 000 people from Estonia, 15, 000 from Latvia and 18, 000 Lithuanians were deported to Siberia and sentenced to 25 years in forced labour camps. The trains leaving that day for the Gulags included thousands of women and children. The occupation by Nazi Germany followed - between 1941 to 1944. The atrocities were appalling. 95% of Lithuanian Jews, almost 200, 000 people were killed by the Nazis. On November 30 and December 8, 1941 - 25, 000 Jews from Riga, Latvia were executed. Estonia's small Jewish community lost 950 people. The Soviet occupation resumed in 1944 and didn't end until 1991. The three countries were removed from the map of Europe as they were annexed by the USSR. The enormity of the losses sustained during this period is staggering. Latvia and Estonia lost nearly a third of their respective populations during the Soviet military occupation. There was a concerted effort to ethnically cleanse the indigenous Baltic people of their countries and replace the populations with Russians to deepen the incorporation of these Nations into the Soviet empire. For example, Estonia was 90% ethnically Estonia at the end of the Second Word War. By 1989 the population dropped to being 62% Estonian. Colonialism and Russification were comprehensive strategies designed to erase the history, culture and people of the Baltic countries.
The Baltics were the last European countries to retain Paganism. Lithuania held out longest before converting to Christianity; they fought off Christian crusaders until the 14th century. It is perhaps ironic, that in spite of their longstanding resistance to Christianity, Catholicism played a significant role in each Nation's struggle to regain self-determination and end the reviled fifty-one year-long Soviet occupation. As we know - the Stalinist project ended in failure. Today we can happily witness the creative re-blosomming of free and vibrant societies in Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia.
This new optimism is playfully enshrined in the Constitution of The Republic of Užupis - the rebellious, yet fun and irreverent bohemian, self-declared mini-state in Vilnius. I am standing in front of the 41-point engraved Constitution. It guarantees its citizens: The right to make mistakes. The right to be unique. The right to love. To be idle. To be of any nationality. A right to love and take care of a cat. No one, however has the right to violence. I obtained an official Užupi stamp in my passport.
The Art Nouveau architecture in Riga is the most flamboyant, outrageous, and perplexing that I have ever seen. It is easy to spend hours walking and gawking at the facades of these ornate, at times frankly bizarre buildings. whatever meaning you derive from the design elements, their artistry and intricacy is undeniable - and mezmerizing.
The hip, nonchalant art nouveau cat somehow fit right in.
Turning down a street, the scene abruptly changed. Couldn't help but wonder, if at least some of the inspiration for these early 20th century fantastical motifs weren't at times influenced by just a little too much - Jägermeister.
The three beautifully preserved Medieval capital cities of the Baltic countries - Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn were an unexpected joy to travel to. I am thankful that their determined, proud and resilient inhabitants didn't succumb to their oppressive histories, but instead, in face of adversity, they responded with post-traumatic growth and have continued to collectively flourish. Today the rest of the world can marvel, learn from, and enjoy these beautifully restored, fairly-tale like urban gems - lovingly showcased by their proud residents.
I ended my own "Baltic Way" in the magical, two-tiered, walled city of Tallinn, Estonia. The narrow cobbled stone streets, lively cafés, numerous churches, and fine museums are all reason enough to want to come back and explore this region deeper still.
